For four days, Essaouira doesn’t sleep and the medina fills up. Here’s how to plan your meal around the concerts rather than against them.
Four days when the city changes rhythm
The Gnaoua and World Music Festival transforms Essaouira every summer: open-air stages at Moulay Hassan and on the beach, intimate concerts in the riads, and lilas that stretch until dawn. The streets are packed, the terraces too, and the city’s usual timings shift by several hours.
Eat early, or eat very late
The main concerts generally start in the late afternoon and run one after another well into the night. Two approaches work well: come around 6–7 pm, before the main stage, or join us after 10:30 pm, once the first wave has headed back out to the concerts. In between is the busiest stretch of the evening.
Book several days ahead
This is the one time of year we recommend booking well in advance rather than the day before. The terrace goes first, especially for the sunset slots. If you’re a large group, let us know — we can arrange the dining room accordingly.
Getting around the medina during the festival
Some streets become hard to reach during concert hours, and taxis stop well away from the stages. Allow extra time, plan on walking the last stretch, and remember that the wind rarely drops before nightfall — a light jacket is never a bad idea, even in June.
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